Essi Avellan: Bright golden. Soft, refined apple pie, vanilla, and spice nose with a charred undernote to it. Full, rich, powerful palate, with slightly nervous, youthful mousse. Ripe, exuberant palate, seamless but rather singular. The acidity stands out. Maturing but has kept its freshness. 17

Simon Field: Rather modest mousse and flat color, a state of affairs that does not improve on the nose. The palate has an intriguing, slightly torrefied character, vinous and a little heavy. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale lemon color, youthful fruit-driven aromas, but a touch aldehydic on the palate. 14 (29 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 4g/l dosage; <1mg/l total SO2)