Essi Avellan: Deep golden color with a brown hue. Unpleasantly lifted, gluey nose topped up with a dusty finish. Fruity and fresh on the palate but singular. Spoiled by the predominant varnish character. The second bottle is slightly better. Feels even alcoholic! 14

Simon Field: A strident apply nose, late-harvest, rich and over-indulgent. Sulfury, overworked, and altogether hard to like! 12

Tom Stevenson: There are reductive and oxidative Champagnes, the two basic styles of Champagne, both of which are legitimate when correctly and cleanly produced, as indeed this is; but within correct parameters, Champagnes can lean this way and that, and this one leans the reductive way. Too far for some, including me (because it makes the fruit banal for me), but not for others, who will revel in the extremity. 14 (5 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 0g/l dosage; 0mg/l total SO2)