Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Earthy, spice driven nose, with ripe red fruit and charred and nutty notes. Oxidative tendencies, but these are under control. The palate is fresh yet round and wide, with a slightly foamy mousse. Serious and gastronomic style, slightly too dry. Fine acidity. Has character. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold; steady mousse. Lots of powdered stone and leaf sap, with the fruit notes somehow sublimated and lifted so that they are no longer merely fruit. You smell the fruited vinosity more than the pure fruit itself. Vinous, long, driving and rewarding in the mouth; both lean and aerodynamic, yet full and allusive too. Sappy and fine, and some ground stone in the finish, too. Just a little bit austere overall. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: A substantial cuvée with a fabulously lean, acid bent. The fruit here makes an unforgettable impression on the palate. Long, persistent, and penetrating. 17.5