Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Mild, elegant, beautifully creamy nose; lovely vanilla and toast depth from bottle aging. Promising. Intense and round on the palate, too, but finishes unnecessarily dry, which deducts from the charm. Still, good depth and character of its own without losing its elegance. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold; gentle mousse. Sweet but a little cloying; hint of warm plastic. On the palate, though, a better wine than the nose suggested: pure, dry, stony, refined, long; almost nutty but not quite; almost stony but not quite. A more attractive aroma would win a higher score. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: A leesy character to the nose, this wine has an interesting balance of richness for its lean structure. Could be kept a short while. 16