Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon with a peach hue. Mild, red-apple, rather straightforward nose, which is somewhat reminiscent of cider. Pear and yeasty characters. Round palate; mousse a bit foamy. Slightly hollow, lacking grip. Very dry, but has sweet fruitiness. Simple and youthful. 14

Andrew Jefford: Full gold; slightly lazy mousse. Rich, toasty nose, teetering into butterscotchy fatness and a slight flatness: big flirtation with oxygen. Deep, appley fruit... from Meunier country? I quite like the orchard frankness of this wine, but I can’t say it’s a Champagne of great finesse, and some might find it frankly cidery. It is balanced, though, for a non-dosage wine. 12.5

Tom Stevenson: Fresh, vibrant nose, with some floral-autolytic aromas translating to the palate. Medium weight, good mousse, clean finish initially, but a bit of sour cream on the aftertaste. Drink; do not keep. 15