Tom Stevenson: This has an extra dimension of freshness and purity of fruit, helped no doubt by its acidity, which, if tasted blind, I might put down as a classic 2008 rather than a more lush 2009. This acid line is particularly effective across a range of dishes at the table. 17

Andrew Jefford: A lively mousse, with powdery, lemony, ivy-leaf scents and lots of finesse. On the palate, the wine is fine-grained, elegant, and acidic, with austere, driving lemon and green-apple fruit. It finishes very tautly and tightly, despite the six years of age. Will it relax into articulacy with further aging? Perhaps—but there’s little sign of this yet. 14.5