Andrew Jefford: Saturated dense black-red. Earthy, dark, sweet, and beautifully parsed, with ample allusions for those who might go looking (spices, plant sap, dark fruits, and rummaged stone notes, too): an aromatic profile of impressive complexity. On the palate, a dark and vital wine. There’s a little less tannic wealth and textural amplitude than I expected, but the wine makes up for this with masterful though (just) ripe acidity and athletic concentration. A truly splendid effort for the year. I wouldn’t keep it over the long term, as that aciddriven fruit will never give the lazy tannic unctuous mellowness that carries great Bordeaux most distantly through time, but this is a commanding effort for the medium-term, before the acid and flesh begin to part company. 2020–28. 94

Michael Schuster: Dense, ripe, closed, fine; rich, generous, elegantly balanced medium-full wine, with a brisk acidity and fine-grained tannin; long and fine, aromatic and complex to taste, all still within a youthful frame; still quite muscular and needing plenty of time, but long and satisfying, given bottle age. Firm, fine, relatively long-term. 2024–40+. 93