Nicolas Belfrage: Deepish color. Grape aromas a bit covered by oak. Lots of sweet, well-typed fruit on the palate, though. Oak follows them through but doesn’t cover. Concentrated and serious, firm tannins, good finish. Needs time; start drinking around 2010. 15.5

Simon Larkin: A deep hue. The aromas reveal fine cherry fruit. The palate is compact, with tea-chest notes and an admirably deep cherry fruit. There is a fine sense of volume here. Quite bold, full, with layers of fruit. Once again, a more masculine style, with assertive tannins and serious backbone. There is a fine persistence, if also a little warmth. 13.5

Franco Ziliani: A color that you don’t expect to find in Nebbiolo! Dark purple, inky, super-concentrated (the effect of “new clones” of Nebbiolo, of course!). The nose is wild, absurdly oaky and toasted, and devoid of elegance. The palate is rich, with ripe fruit and solid tannins but no complexity or development, only concentrated fruit, high alcohol, and oak. Poor for Barbaresco. 12