Tim Atkin: Mature garnet/brick red. Overdeveloped. Leafy, tannic, dry, oxidized style. Old and old-fashioned. Should have been drunk years ago. Drying out. 8

Alex Hunt: Very mature aromas, but still with admirable lift and vigor: camphor, eucalyptus, molasses. Savory, tomato-like palate, still in fine balance. Distinctive, as well as enjoyable. 14.5

Anthony Rose: Deep rich garnet. There are very evolved characters of spice, game, and tomato leaf on the nose. Nicely evolved and graceful sweet-fruit quality on the palate, with undertones of cedary spice and licorice, nicely softened down tannins, but still such fresh acidity for such an evidently traditional Malbec. A wine that remains a classic of its kind, even if the style is now old-fashioned, the fruit just starting, ever so gently, to fade, the dying of the light before a new dawn… 16