Michael Edwards: Welsh gold with green lights; rich citrusfruits nose but also orchard ones like peach; rich, ripe fruit, fine filigreed acidity; good balance, no shiver factor, or asperity. Still tightly wound, with much to give. 16

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; fine mousse. Sculpted, Gothic aromas: fresh, dry, plant sap. A little sweet vanilla behind, but not particularly beguiling. Searching, austere, pure, dry, very stony and refined; ripeness teased to the threshold, but very little of the way over and in to the house. This works well as a bracing mouthful of the cool north, a Champagne of monastic austerity. Not a crowd-pleaser, though. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Typically pale, very brut, high acids, and a classic lime nose. Fresh and crisp with plenty of energy. Lovely, long, persistent, lemon, lime, and apple fruit on the finish. 16.5