Michael Edwards: Even yellow, gold lights, hint of green; acidity and dryness on nose; quite a fine-drawn, linear, and athletic palate; pure; a more reductive style of winemaking—still young-tasting. Honorable. 16

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; fine mousse. Fresh orchard fruits on a breezy day; lightly lactic, banana hint behind. Soundly constructed, medium-weight palate built around a core of that same apple-and-pear fruit. Not particularly chalky or stony on the finish, and the fruits are more satisfying than exquisite. But it’s a workmanlike effort, and I’d happily sip away. 14

Tom Stevenson: Rich and tasty, with very fresh fruit for a 12-year-old Champagne. Technically the criticism must be its medium-sized bubbles, but these should get finer with more post-disgorgement aging. I’d love to retaste this disgorgement in 12 or 24 months. 15.5