Michael Edwards: Clear yellow with green lights; maybe a brut nature with no dosage but smells and tastes as if it has some residual sugar; slight lack of core on the mid-palate, a simple ripeness, with a touch of honey. Not a style I warm to. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold; fine mousse. Slightly coarse and farmy; apples and barn straw. Not offensive, though; loosely autumnal. A structured, full palate of moderate concentration and very plump style for a brut nature; lots of ripeness here. Satisfactory, even affable—and how often can you say that about brut nature? The finish seems mineral-salty and tonic. It’s not, however, a Champagne for purists, and the finesse and poise are missing. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: Deeper color, lovely silky-soft mousse, but a touch of VA on both nose and palate does more than elevate the fruit. Another one to drink now; don’t keep. 14.5