Michael Edwards: A subtler green gold than the Stanislas. A favored single plot from old vines in (grand cru) Avize. The main impression is a real sense of place, the vineyard on the upper fin slopes, close to the sunny Oger road. Sizillé—that is, precise—with a lovely, light-footed athleticism, no overextraction, no wood, nothing “big,” great purity. Sans makeup. Very fine. 18 +

Tom Stevenson: Pale-lemon color belies its toasty-gunpowder nose and rich, grippy-creamy fruit, but returns as expected with a fresh, crisp finish, underscored by an energetic, silky mousse. This has the potential to develop. 17