Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Generous, aged nose with sweet coffee, honey, and dried-fruit aromas alongside a minor mushroom whiff. Full-on, rich, mature, age-mellowed palate. Oily and round, mouth-filling and impressively muscular. A big boy, and with plenty of age, too, but not really tiring or oxidizing. 18.5

Simon Field: Luminous golden hue, then mature savory aromas; the mouthfeel is generous, edgy, smoky, and fascinating. A vinous quality intrudes but does not pervade; the finish is finely judged but just a little “dusty.” 16

Tom Stevenson: Lovely old-gold color, with an intriguing toast, coffee, and raspberry-confiture aroma; a snapshot in time. 17.5 (6 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 10g/l dosage; 5mg/l total SO2)