Essi Avellan: Deep golden. Soft, age-mellowed nose of pastry richness and appeal. Ground coffee, vanilla viennoiserie, and apricot tart. Round, generous, wide-open palate ready to impress. Mature but healthy fruit expression; you can feel the age, but in the healthiest of ways. Long, concentrated, fruit-laden finish. Starts to fade rather quickly in the glass. 18

Simon Field: A big generous color and a distinctly lactic nose. The palate is plump, but not completely clean, it seems, which is a shame, because there is clearly generosity here and no shortage of ambition. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Warm old-gold color and clean, sweetish fruit make for a healthy survivor, but there is not so much class or complexity. 15 (29 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12.5%; 8g/l dosage; 40mg/l total SO2)