Besserat de Bellefon Triple B Brut Nature Champagne France 2015 (12.5% ABV) – 90
SF | Pale straw, a hint of Chablisien green. Energetic mousse. Nose a little coarse, rubbery almost: a function of youth, or of not entirely successful reductive winemaking? The palate seems to hint at the latter; brine and hedgerow, and a slight disjoint between the acidity (prominent) and the dosage, which seems quite low, but also, paradoxically, quite prominent! 87
EA | Bright lemon color. Overt nose, with toffee-apple, cream, apple pie, and a spicy twist. Plush, round, and fleshy on the palate, with a soft sense of acidity and equally soft mousse. The finish carries on to a dry, slightly austere finish. Forward and fruity. 2023–27. 91
TH | A fine, more delicate citrus profile for 2015 here, with some red-pear and lemon-syrup flavors, acacia honey, and toasted almond. A supple, approachable palate, marked appealingly with some grapefruit-peel bite—rather a nuanced take on the vintage. 2023–28. 91