SB | Rather dusty nose, with little overt fruit expression. Lean and silky on the attack, this has considerable fluidity on the palate. The acidity is present but rather stark, as the fruit is limited. Straightforward and a touch bland, this gives immediate if limited pleasure. There's a light mineral tang on the finish, which shows only moderate length. 86
AJ | Bright, lemony gold. Sappy, sinewy scents but quite allusive, with notes of apricot and dried mango and a quiet noisette fullness, too. Subtle and unobtrusive but appealing. Complex, finely-crafted wine, which blends the force and personality of the Mansengs with the textured understatement of the Courbus to excellent effect. Very pur sang South Western, yet full of gastronomic intrigue. There's both weight and vivacity, both primary fruit and secondary nuance and texture; like a dreamy Pyrenean cousin of a straight-laced Pessac-Léognan. Apple, apple peel, lemon, honey, oak bark, forest floor—but tapered and chamfered into something rather classy and elegant. 92
SR | This golden-yellow 2021 Pacherenc is rather rustic on the nose, which reveals an intense and savory fruit, with vegetal notes. On the palate, this is a medium- to full-bodied, dense and refreshing white, with stimulating bitters and salinity on the pure yet well-sustained, quite powerful and athletic finish. Really good length here as well as tension, grip, and vitality, all this, however, in a more charismatic, rural style. 88