SF | Pale color, limpid; a powerful and persistent mousse. Flinty, fruit-stone nose, kernels and pith, too. Lean, it seems, but less so on the palate, where the sugar sits a little awkwardly, unsure of how it will regiment the inherent quality. A transitional phase; this one needs more post-disgorgement time to settle down. Firm of purpose, at least, and that purpose appears well thought-out! 93
EA | Pale lemon color. Mild, florally scented nose, with cool and crisp white-fruit profile. Lemon juice, white flowers, and pear drops, with just a little toasty complexity. Rather youthful still, with little autolytic complexity. Lightweight palate, which comes across as a little stripped. Juicy, fresh, and energetic palate, finishing on a dry note. Very correct, with some cool elegance to it. 2023–33. 93
TH | This plays on the maturity rather than the angularity of the year, with a controlled, reductive character, white-peach succulence, delicate red fruit, subtle dairy characters, and plenty of detail—there's a real sense of assemblage and equilibrium here. The mousse is integrated, the palate shaped with rare elegance and clarity, Chardonnay's fine, lightly puckering zestiness closing with sapidity rather than force. This even shows some chalky, mineral detail, which is not always present in the vintage. A fine 2015. 93