SF | Lemon-straw color, modestly effervescent. A nose of flowers, the haywain, and mid-season apples; citric notes, too, and something a little deeper in register; fig, maybe, not quite truffle. Raw and concentrated, still not completely formed, the acidity somewhat overwhelming at the moment, and one is anxious as to whether the fruit will pull it through to the next level. 89
EA | Medium-deep lemon color. Rich, sweetly fruity nose, with a slightly disturbing, cheesy, lactic tone to it. The palate is rich and energetic, with a sweet tone that lasts through the finish. A shame about the slight impurity of the nose. 2023–30. 90
TH | A peachy-sweet ripeness here, backed up with some toast and cream and detailed with fresh red fruits. The palate shows some lemon-peel Chardonnay precision, which pulls the wine tight, with moderate length and neat balance. 2023–26. 88