Domaine La Borderie Val More Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Champagne France 2015 (12% ABV) – 87
SF | Straw-lemon-green, with a reluctant filigree of smallish bubbles. Nose of macadamia, hawthorn, and charcuterie, green fruit in obeisance; the palate then highlights the phenolic character and appears rather disjointed, both acidity and sugar evidenced, but not harmoniously entwined; competing, one may say, or maybe it is just the fact that the fruit lacks concentration in the light of an overweening and, as of now, somewhat thwarted ambition. 89
EA | Peach-tinged lemon color. The nose comes across as youthful, with sweet, primary fruit of red apple and orange peel prevailing. The palate is plush, with a generous mousse and sweet fruit. The overall impression is a little simple and super-youthful. The wine carries long, and finishes on a sweet note. 2023–30. 90
TH | Rather aggressively green, this shows a distinctive, early-picked character. Grippy, hard, and somewhat unyielding, this shows some of the struggles of the year. 81