AJ | Dark, dense, opaque black-purple. Complex and composed, with impressive aromatic refinement, and some of the 'graphite', incense and warm stone one associates with more generous vintages. Outstanding aromatic complexity here. There's even a kind of fruited creaminess which is also unusual in this vintage. Ample sombre, meditative appeal. On the palate, this is deep, driving, dense, taut, long, and an inspiring journey into the vegetative as well as the fruited dimensions of the site ... 'whole-vine wine'. I love its drama, its sap and its textured freshness. You can't fault its ripeness and it is very true to the vintage; the aromatics are superb too, with much to find in fruit, acidity and tannins. I can understand the excitement this site and this approach have inspired, and in a way it is very evidently on show in 2021. It won't please everyone, though, and this is a property where there seems to me to be a big gap between Grand Vin and second wine in 2021. Drink Dates: 2028 - 2043. 93
SF | Inky purple, with a nose which initially betrays reduction , then offers spearmint, wet coal, jasmine and sloe. Quite a combination! The natural order of things is restored on the palate, with red fruit in the ascendant, cherry and Victoria plum, with finely grained chalky tannins in support, a seam of acidity failing to overwhelm and a strong, if restrained finish. No danger of over-reach here, but very agreablel for all that . Drink Dates: 2029 - 2039. 92