AJ | Still a saturated black-red and opaque almost to the rim, where there is just a little brick in the purple. Quite chocolatey-sweet in aroma, with lots of chunky plum and damson fruit. Some savoury notes, too. Very sound and still to some extent in its brooding phase. Mellow, now; very soft tannins, barely perceptible on the vintage-port scale. Lots of dense fruit accounts for the dark colour, and that fruit is beginning to infuse a little with menthol and herb, though plums and damsons remain at the core. Impressive fruit, moreover: all the pleasure lies in diving into that. Very delicious right now and honestly I wouldn't wait much longer. The fruit will modulate and recede within 15 years and I'm not sure that, at that point, it will have the lineaments to hold the attention. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2033. 90
SF | The most senior member of this trio of vintage ports ( the 'cello?) and the only one anywhere near maturity, therefore with a weight of responsibility. Stygian complexion for all that and not much by way of fade at the rim. Even vintage port starts to acknowledge the rigours of anno domini after 40 years does it not? Sometimes. Supple dark fruit on the palate ( boysenberry and sloe) and a distant voice from star anise and Mirabelle plum. Tannins and acidity are neatly entwined, taking care of each other and allowing vestigial fruit and a savoury subtext to hold the attention. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2045. 93
RM | Still surprisingly deep at the centre with a reddish rim not showing much sign of age; ripe but a touch stewed on the nose, warm country fruit, stewed plums that just stop short of being pruney; ripe, broad and vibrant on the palate, still showing definition and focus mid-palate, ripe but firm tannins backing up some lovely fresh plum and berry fruit which emerges on the finish, long and vigorous. This is lovely now (still youthful) and still has a long life in bottle. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2060. 96