AJ | A pale, translucent amber; the paler of its little group of two. Softly and sweetly aromatic, with some dried flower notes. Not prodigiously aromatic as many of the oldest wines in this tasting will be, but skilfully done, with cask notes present and complexing but unobtrusive. With time in the glass, all of this gathers force to make a commanding though graceful fortified wine. Relatively dry in style and amply fruited, too (plum, apple, grapefruit, apricot); seamlessly textured; very pristine and well-preserved. Indeed almost taut. Not a wine of a thousand analogies, but what it does, it does very well, and it makes a good case for what was until recently a neglected style. A Jane-Austen fortified, so back in Zeitgeist. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2035. 92
SF | Amber with a distinct hint of green, recalling a Boal. Medium pigmentation, softened at the rim. The a lovely nose of fruit and flowers, the latte still in bloom , the former diffuse and heterogeneous, with ripe pear, quince and mandarin all vying for attention, then crushed almost chalky stones and a whiff of incense. Very pleasing. The palate is equally impressive, the shard of acidity held neatly in counterpoint to the 21% of alcohol, the latter persuasive but not overwhelming. Hints of spearmint, damask rose and white chocolate all play their part and all work together to forge an agreeable ensemble which is finely poised between its second and third age. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2050. 94
RM | Pale-mid amber with a pale green glint on the rim; gentle, delicate creamy toffee aromas reflected on the palate too with a touch of vanilla leading to a long, delicate linear finish with the toffee giving way to a streak of fresh fruit acidity. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2035. 91