Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep with turn. Cherry and vanilla on the nose. Ripe, concentrated fruit, at present untogether, slightly tough, slightly bitter. Plenty to it, but it needs time. Drink from 2019. 89

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to brick red. Slightly reduced on the nose, with black fruits and dried herbs. Full body and layered fruit, yet a touch green on the finish. 85

Andrew Jefford: Very, very dark wine in this context. Stand back: very regal. Sumptuous, full, lots of ermine and plush fruit. A little bit new wave for classicists, perhaps, but how can you not like this? Sweet yet dark and provocative. Dense, deep, dark, plush, and, well, regal again; a wine with lots of force and authority to it. Some might object that the authority is too much based on force, but it works splendidly well for me. Great thunderous fruit; fiery tannins; just something terrifically exciting in the glass, and it (thanks to those tannins, which cannot lie) does not betray its place in any way. Very low yields, surely. Certainly one of the “biggest” 2011s, for better or worse. 94