Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Fine, toasty, rich, and evolved nose. Sweet fruitiness and plenty of depth. Gorgeous coffee and cream notes, with burnedsugar charred nuances. Promises a lot. Mature on the palate, with age-derived calmness. Full-bodied and crisp, with good linearity. At a great drinking age now, with some potential left to improve. 18

Andrew Jefford: Fuller gold, rather torpid mousse. Terrific bready aromas here; like stumbling into the boulangerie shortly after five in the morning. Very enticing. Deep, full, rich and very generous for an Extra Brut, with wonderful-quality raw material: grand architecture of fruit, vinosity, length, sap, and wealth. Completely dry, yet doesn’t seem dry or drawn at all; lovely flesh on the sculpted cheekbone. Rigor, purity, and generosity; hard to better that. Whose vineyard? 18

Tom Stevenson: Youthful toastiness in the aroma and on the finish. Nicely timed disgorgement. Lovely midpalate plumpness derived from good yeast-aging. A classically constructed Champagne of individual style and character. 18.5