Essi Avellan: Deep orange-hued peachy color. Evolved, winey, spicy, meaty, even leathery nose. All about wild, aged Pinot characters. Really winey on the fleshy, muscular palate, with dry, grippy finish. Powerful, deep, and expressive. A wild one, but it works. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Full orange-red. Round, warm, gentle tangerine-orange fruits: stealthily attractive. Complex, composed, and secondary flavors, with lots of biscuity fullness, incipient nuttiness and modulated fruit. A pronounced earthy finish, too, with a clean finish in which the dosage is well absorbed; earthy finish. Characterful, secondary rosé Champagne that I’d enjoy drinking. 16

Tom Stevenson: This wine’s tawnied pale-peach color provides an accurate reflection of the fruit on the palate, which is essentially fresh, yet has an aged element. 15