Essi Avellan: Deep golden, peach-hued color. Strong, appley nose with great intensity but also oxidative notes. Really mouth-filling and concentrated. Age- mellowed and ripe but starting to lose some of its energy and move to a more melancholic genre. Great acidity backing it up, though. 16

Andrew Jefford: Old gold; gently sustained mousse. Wellcomposed aromas: fresh apple, a sweet brocade of spun sugar around it, some earthy fullness; dewy grass. Not quite classic, but diverting and engaging. Full, rich, and rounded on the palate, with plenty of oxygen softening and cellar charm. Characterful, relatively sweet-edged, older Champagne from good-quality vineyards, but it’s time to tip it back... 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Broad-brush flavors underscored by a very soft and sumptuous mousse. 16