Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Soft, ripe red-apple nose, baking spices, ginger and floral tones. Expansive, fluffy mousse on the wide but loose palate. Bitingly acidic at the end. Can’t help but crave a mild dosage. Clean fruitiness and good vibrancy. 15

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; desultory mousse. Scents of damp chalk and apple peel. Searching and very appley on the palate, but good finesse here, and more damp chalk on the finish. This tastes like Champagne looks in winter: interestingly mournful. Good single-vineyard Champagne. Totally dry, yet there is the whisper of sweetness and perfume right at the end. Vinous and resonant. I’d love to drink some of this. In the context of its peers, admirably stony. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: A touch oxidative on the nose, lots of acid, a bit citric. A nice touch of subtle oak mid-palate, but lacks fruit or yeast-complexed ampleness, which would take this wine further. Drink; do not keep. 15