Essi Avellan: Pale color, with a peachy hue. Toffee on the mild nose of red-fruit profile. Big mousse on the palate, which finishes extremely dry. Crisp, invigorating, and pleasantly intense style, clearly aiming for transparency, but could use some charm and complexity. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale; languid mousse. Sweet, enticing crème anglaise scents, with a little seaweed behind. Rather straightforward on the palate, by contrast: dry, open, sound, but uneventful. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: A touch smoky, with oxidative edges on the nose. Not uninteresting, but the most interesting aspect of this is the sappy, mouthwatering finish. Drink; do not keep. 15