Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Evolved, sweet nose with undertones of vanilla, honey, and pastry. Big and bold entry, but it becomes hollow and loses its linearity. Coarse mousse. Somehow disjointed. Very dry and austere at the finish. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold with steady mousse. Plump, sweet nose; you can almost smell the dosage. Concentrated but rather raw wine; sweetened apple cores. I wouldn’t drink this with much pleasure, alas. 12

Tom Stevenson: Flinty, wet-pebble style, with an energetic mousse and a grippy finish. Not classic, but not bad either! 15