Essi Avellan: Pale lemon. Really crisp nose without any oxidative notes. Clean white-fruit and floral profile. Youthful with some leesiness and subtle, yogurty lactic notes. Restrained plate, too, focused and tight. Fresh and lean with long, clean, very dry length. Serious style, not playing on charm, but well made with further improvement potential. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale green-gold; steady mousse. An almost flinty nose: struck stone and not damp chalk—that is, some reduction or even sulfide drift; not quite aromatically impeccable. Green apple beneath. Vivid, edgy, incisive; the same combination of stone and green apple. Slightly aggressive and raw in style, but concentrated and long. 11.5

Tom Stevenson: Only one bottle, and it has a very slight murky aroma, which could be the beginning of DMDS [dimethyl disulfide], but no second bottle to taste against. Mid-palate okay, but the mousse seems disjointed, capable of dissipating, and I still have the possibility of DMDS at the back of my mind. Prefer to give no score. | NS