Jesús Barquín: Golden yellow. As opposed to the previous wine, also a 2003, the evolution is obvious, if noble and elegant, with pleasant notes of camphor and subtle spices. Remarkable structure with solid acidity. Again, a delicious and profound wine. 94

Andrew Jefford: Mid old gold in color. Tangy, warm, bready, mushroomy, umami: something very different, now, from the younger wines. This certainly smells as if it is drawing its pension, but there is much to enjoy if you are open to it. Lush, soft, nutty, languid, and full, with a note of umami. Delicious but a curiosity now. 84

Andreas Larsson: Quite aged and faded color, not perfectly clear, with tiny bubbles. The nose has age, evolution, and oxidation, with notes of windfall, cider, spices, and some animal notes in the direction of a vin nature. The palate is rather dry and angular, with more acidity and extract than fruit. It certainly has length, but to me it appears a bit dried out—it should have been drunk already. 81