Stephen Brook: Light gold, darker than most. Burnished nose, caramel as well as peachy fruit, with a lot of botrytis for Auslese. Very rich and creamy, concentrated, spicy, assertive, tarte aux pommes (or do I mean Apfelstrudel?). Excellent wine in the sumptuous Robert Weil style, but this is clearly a declassified BA or even TBA, and lacks Auslese typicity. But hard to mark down on that account. 18

Margaret Rand: Complex, smoky nose, very rich, weighty palate, and a powerful finish. Exciting wine, very concentrated, tight and balanced. Seems very concentrated for an Auslese—this could surely pass as a BA. 17

Jancis Robinson: Quite deep gold. Full, pungent, mineral-laden nose. Already feels quite heavy in the glass! Pralines on the nose, lovely unctuousness, with lots of botrytis evident. Bravo! Baby Beerenauslese quality. 2014–30. 18.5