Stephen Brook: Lush floral nose, honeysuckle, as much like late-harvest Condrieu as Riesling; certainly has aromatic weight. Rich, creamy, voluptuous, full-bodied. Has more flesh than I would normally associate with Mosel, so lacks a little typicity. Moderate length and a slightly sticky finish. This could evolve fast. 15

Margaret Rand: Smoky nose; intense palate of smoky peaches. Very sweet, lush, concentrated. That intensity gives it quite a chunky air (for a MSR…), but the finish has finesse. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: A relative heavyweight—passion-fruit juice—and slightly heavy overall, without quite as much acidity as one would need for the long term. The finish is just very slightly cloying. Drink 2008–13. 16