Stephen Brook: Vibrant nose, ripe grapefruit; not much evident botrytis, but a lot of freshness and aromatic vigor. Lean, delicate, yet has underlying richness. Has an attractive and refreshing sherbetty tone on the finish, which is reasonably long. 17

Margaret Rand: A lean, green-apple note on the palate. It’s a taut, lean, fit wine, with no spare flesh but plenty of depth and length. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Very reduced nose and rather simple lemon-sherbet palate. No great layers of flavor here. Rather thin and skinny. It may have reached the required Oechsle levels, but it doesn’t seem to have much interest. Fades very fast on the finish. Drink 2008–12. 15