Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Hefty nose, caramelized oranges; spicy, minty, complex; clearly a lot of botrytis. Very rich, velvety, plump, concentrated but surprisingly evolved—and almost a bit tarry with those caramel tones. Has the figginess of TBA, so this is almost certainly declassified. But undeniably impressive despite the lack of purity. Very good length. But I dock a point for lack of typicity. 18

Margaret Rand: Lovely classic coffee nose; palate is rich and vigorous, creamy—very creamy—and glossy. Superb. Very confident winemaking. Utterly seamless wine, with the character and terroir shining through the concentration of fruit. 19

Jancis Robinson: Unusually deep, almost coppery, gold. Very full and almost beery/yeasty on the nose. No shy retiring flower, but a full-on cross between golden syrup and grape juice. Masses of acidity, so quite uncomfortable to drink at the moment. Classicists may find it just a bit much. Almost Trockenbeerenauslese sweetness surely? A difficult wine to mark because it is not in the traditional mold. Drink 2012–20. 18