Stephen Brook: Delightful nose, stone fruits and mandarins; botrytis character; just a touch of caramel. Fairly rich and weighty, but there’s a lot of spice, as well as good acidity to keep it dancing on the palate. Fine concentration and vigor, very persistent. A dramatic style with force and presence. 19

Margaret Rand: Intense, very concentrated, slight burned orange; very good balance, structure, finesse. It’s practically bursting out of the glass at the moment, and it will probably go on doing so for some years yet. Very fine, complex, long. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Fine spritz and quite deep gold. Round and rich and pungent. Relatively evolved and pretty rewarding already. Good lift, even if not much finesse. No one could possibly complain about this wine, even if it is pretty direct and in-your-face. Bumptiousness in a bottle. Superior Lucozade? Drink 2010–22. 17.5