Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Sweet and creamy, and then a firm acidic attack. Not harmonious, and with a raw sherbetty tang on the aftertaste. Obviously skeletal now, but very hard to see how this will develop. A slight lack of concentration and grip rob it of some length, so a medium-term wine, I would guess. 15

Margaret Rand: Burned-orange notes, intensely ripe fruit, young and powerful. Very concentrated—quite a bruiser of a wine. Will last for ages and ages; it’s still a baby, but an enormous one, with great concentration and balance. 18

Jancis Robinson: Not super-fruity or opulent, but competent. Terribly youthful, though, with strong glucose-tablet notes and some rather unsubtle heat or burn, for the moment, on the nose. Certainly not subtle—yet? Quite long, but very sherbet-like as opposed to complex. Drink 2012–20. 17