Stephen Brook: Full gold. Lush, burnished, crème brûlée nose; marmalade, raisins, figs, smothered in nobly rotten fruit. Super-rich, concentrated; caramelized oranges and dates; piquant acidity; complex and spicy—and for all that, it’s not heavy or overbearing. Very good length. 19

Margaret Rand: Deep color and a toasty, raisiny character. Big, sturdy wine with finesse on the finish; very sweet and intense. Still closed; the finish is immensely long. A wine for the very long term. 18

Jancis Robinson: Almost orange/tawny. Nutty, quite developed nose. Full and broad and very syrupy, with some toast on the finish. Rather glamorous and exciting and well balanced, but very much more evolved than most. The Rieussec of the Rheingau? More tarte tatin juice. Extremely unctuous, with almost painful appley acidity too. Despite the development on the nose, I’d wait for this one, which has hints of mint sauce about it. Great weight, yet balanced. Drink 2014–30. 19