Stephen Brook: Attractive nose, mango and peach, and with considerable purity. Lean and fresh, but lacks a little concentration and power for TBA. Tangy acidity, almost sherbetty, but there’s something undernourished here, as though some overripe but not botrytized fruit were added to maintain freshness. Long but also somewhat pinched. 16

Margaret Rand: Peachy and mineral, transparent and concentrated. Beautifully balanced and finely judged. Seamless and with an enormous finish. There’s tremendous finesse here, and a very, very long finish. 19

Jancis Robinson: Sticky, pungent; still marked by sulfur and raw acidity, and still relatively painful to taste. Should get there in the end, though it needs lots of time. 18.5