Alison Buchanan: Jet prune in color, fathomless. Brooding, concentrated black fruit on the nose—a plethora of dried fruit complemented by nuts, citrus peel, and spice. Alert and vivacious, despite its opulence. Hefty and full, it is nonetheless light on its feet and alluring, through to a languid, treacle-rich finish, with a refreshing lift. 18.5

Jesús Barquín: Deep mahogany, almost black. A very old, mature PX, with good balance of oxidative notes (toffee, licorice). A tad vinous, and only a slightly hot note detracts a little. 18

Julian Jeffs: Deep color. Old and distinguished nose. Complex flavor, with a touch of toffee. Mature finish, with quite good length. 17