Alison Buchanan: Liquid Christmas pudding, with a more than average proportion of nuts. Palate and nose are evocative, the palate presenting unctuous, macerated dried fruits layered with mocha cream. Very rich and sweet, this rather lacks focus—but then a comfy, warm slipper is often what is really wanted. 17.5

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep chestnut. Vinous, with notes of orange peel, fresh baking, and some alcohol (especially on the finish), but the overall sensation is positive. 15

Julian Jeffs: Good color and nose. Older and drier than most. Finishes well. 16.5