Alison Buchanan: Jet prune in color, this seems more like home territory, with raisined fruit to the fore, unctuous and rather naughty, silk-textured and full. Creamed raisins, Eccles cakes, and mocha all play a role in a succulent, opulent palate and long, caramel-cream finish. 17

Jesús Barquín: Mahogany. Very sweet and concentrated, a tad primary, dominated by raisiny fruit, most conspicuously on the palate, which ends up becoming cloying, despite correct acidity. 14.5

Julian Jeffs: Deep color. Excellent varietal nose. Well balanced and very long. 17.5