Neil Beckett: Mid-gold. Appropriately stately on the nose, ripe and richly toasty, though far from swamped by the wood. Effortless and grand in scale, without being heavy in weight, the acidity and minerality marked for the cru and the vintage, and more scintillating in these terms (surprisingly) than the Caillerets (which along with the other Chassagne premiers crus did not show as they should and need to be retasted). There is real concentration here (yields were 25 percent lower than in 2004), but pedigree and refinement too. Although it appears to lack a little grip on the mid-palate and race on the finish, where there is not the hoped-for spiral, but instead a slight warmth, it is certainly harmonious, long, and powerful. So while very seductive now, it may be deceptively long-lived, which would allow the nascent complexity to show more fully .