Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Hefty oak nose, with considerable power and a swirl of black fruits and chocolate in the glass. Super-ripe and super-rich, yet not jammy or extracted. There’s surprising minerality alongside the concentrated fruit, and there’s no lack of acidity either. This does have complexity and grip, and it tastes younger than it probably is. Fine potential here. Vigorous and long. Margaret River? 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. A lovely cascade of black-fruit aromas: simple, pristine, focused, pure. All tinged by that lovely end-of-summer, late-evening burr; autumn fruits, with dusk drawing on. As so often, the palate fails to deliver on the relaxed, undulating richness promised by the aromas; this is quite tightly blackcurranty, the acid holding everything in a bit of a clench. Good wine, but overcontrolled. Long, but all the length is acid-derived, whereas the aromatic profile suggests that the unadulterated fruit would have had plenty of length of its own to deliver. Coonawarra. 14

Anthony Rose: Good, vivid, youthful color, overtones of mint and blackcurrant on the nose tinged with mint and spicy cinnamon and vanillin oak; very approachably juicy and moreish, intense cassis-fruit quality, attractively framed by vanillin oak spice and marked fresh juicy acidity. Approachable now, but the substantial tannin and evident firm acidity suggest good aging potential for five years plus. Coonawarra? 17