Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Sweet, elegant blackcurrant nose, with lift and purity. Sleek and silky attack, with a graceful lightness of touch. The wine itself is concentrated and far from light, but it doesn’t seem effortful or strenuous. The acidity gives freshness and finesse. Eminently drinkable and full of charm, this is a slinky little number I could easily get used to. Quite good length. Coonawarra? 17

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-purple. Classic blackcurrant fruit, a touch leafy and a touch sweaty, but cinnamon and coriander-infused, vivacious, engaging, and attractive if you don’t mind the leafiness. Intense, but that intensity is acid-driven, without fruit sweetness clinging to it and perfuming it. Long, formal, correct, but the palate lacks the charm and seductiveness the nose promised, principally because acidity is clamping everything in place. All this makes it merely varietal. Yet the fruit quality is outstanding: bright, focused, and vivacious; and the oaking has been very well managed. Margaret River. 13

Anthony Rose: Mid-ruby in color, showing some evolution; some herbal, leafy undertones on the nose, a hint of greenness; similarly on the palate, a nice quality of blackcurrant and berry-fruit sweetness underscored by slight herbal, minty tones, with good supple tannins and balancing fresh acidity, then a touch of dryness on the finish. Overall, though, a nicely juicy and approachable style that’s halfway to Bordeaux. Margaret River? 16.5