Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Splendid, vibrant, black-currant nose, with some smoky oak. Very rich, voluptuous, creamy; very ripe without being jammy; this is a sensuous expression of Cabernet, with enormous appeal. There’s not a great deal of evident structure or tannin, but there is ample concentration, and I don’t doubt that this has the tenacity to develop further. Good length. Margaret River? 17

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Lots going on here but rather a muddle: pastille-like blackcurrant fruits, but a very dusty element, too, and something darker and more treacly. Nonetheless, I much prefer this to the simpler, overly pristine aromatic profiles. Edgy, acidic, herbaceous, a touch petrolly. All of these elements corrode the intrinsic purity of the fruit and the lovely milk-chocolate richness of the best elements of it. Those best elements have real grace and charm. Mixed ripeness, surely, which a more selective approach might rectify—or an overgenerous hand with acid additions. Coonawarra. 12

Anthony Rose: Youthful ruby in color, there’s an intriguing malty/savory tone behind the more obvious berry-fruit characters and licorice’s spicy oak on the nose. Fine cassis-fruit concentration and opulence here, lovely complexity in its evolved richness of fruit flavors, fine succulence of texture, lovely freshness and balance, topped off on the finish with savory qualities. This has plenty of life in it and should mature into a ripe old age. Coonawarra? 17.5