Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Some greenness on the nose, which may or may not be acceptable, depending on individual tastes. Medium-bodied, sleek, and surprisingly fresh, this has fine-grained tannins, ample sweetness of fruit, and good acidity. There’s a menthol tone, as well as blackcurranty fruit, but it’s less evidently green on the palate than on the nose. The mid-palate shows more elegance than weight, and it does lack some persistence and staying power. But it’s a pretty wine, with considerable charm. Coonawarra? 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Very dark black-red. Ample fruit, but the fruit has a kind of tinned or contained quality that lacks end-of-season resonance. Far too acidic, alas. The acid levels suffocate everything. Beneath the acid, you can see warm, supple, evolved fruit of real articulacy and ripeness trying to emerge; good textural tannins, too. But this must be pushing 7g/l final acid, and it’s far too much. Coonawarra. 11.5

Anthony Rose: Ruby/garnet in color; beautifully evolved; complex aromas of coffee, dark chocolate, and cassis, with both evolved characters and a sweet, red-berry fruit quality, combining beautifully in a seamless, Bordeaux-like style that spells complexity and class, thanks to a lovely red-fruit quality in which the sum is greater than the parts. Margaret River? 18