Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Sweet, intense, black- currant nose. Suave and velvety attack, with luscious fruit but, fortunately, no jamminess. It’s a luxurious style, as wine to wallow in, and it does seem to lack some nuance and edge. Despite some acidity on the mid-palate, the finish is somewhat abrupt. It’s hard to fault the fruit quality, but there is some blandness here. Moderate length. Margaret River? 15

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-purple. Another rather kerosene-like muddle: unresolved mixed ripeness. Tangy, light, petrolly, and simple, though full of the effortless varietal character that both regions can deliver. Once again, the soils and skies deserve a little more effort than this. Acid tang dominates the finish. Margaret River. 11.5

Anthony Rose: Quite evolved in color; the nose, too, with its attractive fragrance, suggests a degree of maturity, with its leafy mulberry-like undertones; very appealing, with an almost deceptive fruit richness and flavors in Bordeaux-style mold, and mulberry and blackcurrant fruity opulence; there’s very good oak integration, which tempers the fruit with an attractive succulence of texture and a natural feel helped in part by its savory acidity. Coonawarra? 18