Stephen Brook: Opaque red. Slightly cooked nose—plums and black cherries. Soft, rounded, and rather soupy, this lacks acidity and flair. It tastes as if it was made from fruit that had been picked too late; it’s floppy and cooked and doesn’t develop on the palate. The finish is sweet and fairly short. Margaret River? 12

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Lots of ripeness here: dark, treacly, yet very attractive, too, with lots of twiggy autumnal complexities. Burnt blackberry, rummaged earth, a kind of pond of black fruits bubbling gently in the late-season warmth. Enticing. All those late-season fruits captured on the palate… yet the bolt of adjusted acidity running through them have deprived them of their natural resonance and reverberation. The overall result, despite those wonderful fruit characters and well-extracted tannins, is hard and simplifying. Such a shame. Another potentially outstanding wine deprived of its natural articulacy by intervention. Margaret River. 14.5

Anthony Rose: Dense, rich ruby in color; attractive spice and dark fruits on the nose; this has quite firm, cassis-fruit flavors, with firm tannins and quite marked acidity, the dryness and slightly pinched acid character suggesting a feeling of compensation for a warm-climate style. Coonawarra? 16.5